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ink  holder;  as  was  my  custom;  in  my  sash。  The  snow  widened  Istanbul’s 
narrow streets and freed the city of its crowds。 All was quieter and slower; as 
it’d  been  in  my  childhood。  Crows  seemed  to  have  beset  Istanbul’s  roofs; 
domes and gardens just as they had on the snowy winter days of my youth。 I 
walked swiftly; listening to my steps in the snow and watching the fog of my 
breath。 I grew excited; expecting the palace workshop that my Enishte wanted 
me to visit to be as silent as the streets。 Before I entered the Jewish quarter; I 
sent word by way of a little street urchin to Esther; who’d be able to deliver my 
letter to Shekure; telling her where to meet me before the noontime prayers。 
I  arrived  early  at  the  royal  artisans’  workshop  located  behind  the  Hagia 
Sophia。 Except for the icicles hanging from the eaves; there was no change in 
the  building  where  I’d  often  visited  my  Enishte  and  for  a  time  worked  as  a 
child apprentice。 
Following  a  handsome  young  apprentice;  I  walked  past  elderly  master 
binders  dazed  from  the  smell  of  glue  and  bookbinder’s  paste;  master 
miniaturists whose backs had hunched at an early age and youths who mixed 
paints  without  even  looking  into  the  bowls  perched  on  their  knees;  so 
sorrowfully were they absorbed by the flames of the stove。 In a corner; I saw 
an  old  man  meticulously  painting  an  ostrich  egg  on  his  lap;  another  elder 
enthusiastically  embellishing  a  drawer  and  a  young  apprentice  graciously 
watching them both。 Through an open door; I witnessed young students being 
reprimanded  as  they  leaned  forward;  their  noses  almost  touching  the  pages 
spread  before  their  reddened  faces;  as  they  tried  to  understand  the  mistakes 
they’d made。 In another room; a mournful and melancholy apprentice; having 
forgotten  momentarily  about  colors;  papers  and  painting;  stared  into  the 
street I’d just now eagerly walked down。 
We  climbed  the  icy  staircase。  We  walked  through  the  portico;  which 
wrapped  around  the  inner  second  floor  of  the  building。  Below;  in  the  inner 
courtyard  covered  with  snow;  two  young  students;  obviously  trembling  from 
the cold despite their thick capes of coarse wool; were waiting—perhaps for an 
imminent beating。 I recalled my early youth and the beatings given to students 
60 
 
who  were  lazy  or  who  wasted  expensive  paints;  and  the  blows  of  the 
bastinado; which landed on the soles of their feet until they bled。 
We entered a warm room。 I saw two novices who’d recently finished their 
apprenticeships。  Since  the  great  masters;  whom  Master  Osman  had  given 
workshop  names;  now  worked  at  home;  this  room;  which  once  aroused 
excessive reverence and delight in me; no longer seemed like the workshop of a 
great  and  wealthy  sultan  but  merely  a  largish  room  in  some  secluded 
caravansary in the remote mountains of the East。 
Immediately  off  to  the  side;  before  a  long  counter;  I  saw  the  Head 
Illuminator; Master Osman; for the first time in fifteen years; he seemed like 
an apparition。 Whenever I contemplated illustrating and painting during my 
travels; the great master would appear in my mind’s eye as if he were Bihzad 
himself; now; in his white outfit and in the snow…white light falling through 
the window facing the Hagia Sophia; he looked as though he’d long bee 
one  of  the  spirits  of  the  Otherworld。  I  kissed  his  hand;  which  I  noticed  was 
mottled; and I introduced myself。 I explained how my Enishte had enrolled me 
here as a youth; but that I’d preferred a bureaucratic post and left。 I recounted 
my years on the road; my time spent in Eastern cities in the service of pashas 
as a clerk or treasurer’s secretary。 I told him how; working with Serhat Pasha 
and  others;  I’d  met  calligraphers  and  illuminators  in  Tabriz  and  produced 
books; how I’d spent time in Baghdad and Aleppo; in Van and Tiflis; and how 
I’d seen many battles。 
“Ah; Tiflis!” the great master said; as he gazed at the light from the snow…
covered  garden  filtering  through  the  oilskin  covering  the  window。  “Is  it 
snowing there now?” 
His demeanor befitted those old Persian masters who grew blind perfecting 
their artistry; who; after a certain age; lived half…saintly; half…senile lives; and 
about whom endless legends were told。 I straightaway saw in his jinnlike eyes 
that  he  despised  my  Enishte  vehemently  and  that  he  was  furthermore 
suspicious of me。 Even so; I explained how in the Arabian deserts snow didn’t 
simply fall to the Earth; as it was now falling onto the Hagia Sophia; but onto 
memories as well。 I spun a yarn: When it snowed on the fortress of Tiflis; the 
washerwomen  sang  songs  the  color  of  flowers  and  children  hid  ice  cream 
under their pillows for summer。 
“Do tell me what those illuminators and painters illustrate in the countries 
you’ve visited;” he said。 “What do they depict?” 
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A dreamy…eyed young painter who was ruling out pages in the corner; lost 
in revery; raised his head from his folding work desk along with the others in 
the room and gave me a look that said; “Let this be your most honest answer。” 
Many  of  these  craftsmen  didn’t  know  the  corner  grocer  in  their  own 
neighborhood; or how much an oke’s worth of bread cost; but they were very 
curious  about  the  latest  gossip  East  of  Persia;  where  armies  clashed;  princes 
strangled  one  another  and  plundered  cities  before  burning  them  to  the 
ground; where war and peace were contested each day; where the best verses 
were written and the best illustrations and paintings were made for centuries。 
“Shah Tahmasp reigned for fifty…two years。 In the last years of his life; as you 
know;  he  abandoned  his  love  of  books;  illustrating  and  painting;  turned  his 
back on poets; illustrators and calligraphers; and resigning himself to worship; 
passed away; whereupon his son; Ismail; ascended to the throne;” I said。 “Shah 
Tahmasp  had  been  well  aware  of  his  son’s  disagreeable  and  antagonistic 
nature; so he kept him; the shah…to…be; behind locked doors for twenty years。 
As  soon  as  Ismail  assumed  the  throne;  in  a  mad  frenzy;  he  had  his  younger 
brothers  strangled—some  of  whom  he’d  blinded  beforehand。  In  the  end; 
however; Ismail’s enemies succeeded in plying him with opium and poisoning 
him; and after being liberated from his worldly presence; they placed his half…
witted  older  brother  Muhammad  Khodabandeh  on  the  throne。  During  his 
reign;  all  the  princes;  brothers;  provincial  governors  and  Uzbeks;  in  short 
everyone; started to revolt。 They went after each other and our Serhat Pasha 
with such martial ferocity that all of Persia turned to smoke and dust and was 
left in disarray。 Indeed; the present shah; bereft of money and intelligence and 
half…blind;  is  not  fit  to  sponsor  the  writing  and  illustration  of  illuminated 
manuscripts。  Thus;  these  legendary  illustrators  of  Kazvin  and  Herat;  all  these 
elderly  masters;  along  with  their  apprentices;  these  artisans  who  made 
masterpieces  in  Shah  Tahmasp’s  workshops;  painters  and  colorists  whose 
brushes  made  horses  gallop  at  full  speed  and  whose  butterflies  fluttered  off 
the page; all of these master binders and calligraphers; every last one was left 
without work; penniless and destitute; homeless and bereft。 Some migrated to 
the  North  among  the  Uzbeks;  some  West  to  India。  Others  took  up  different 
types of work; wasting themselves and their honor; and still others entered the 
service of insignificant princes and provincial governors; all sworn enemies of 
each  other;  to  begin  working  on  palm…size  books  containing  at  most  a  few 
leaves   of   illustration。   Rapidly   transcribed;   hastily   painted;   cheap   books 
appeared everywhere; matching the tastes of mon soldiers; boorish pashas 
and spoiled princes。” 
“How much would they go for?” asked Master Osman。 
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“I  hear  that  the  great  Sadiki  Bey  illustrated  a  copy  of  Strange  Creatures; 
missioned by an Uzbek spahi cavalryman; for only forty gold pieces。 In the 
tent  of  a  vulgar  pasha  who  was  returning  from  his  Eastern  campaign  to 
Erzurum; I beheld an album consisting of lewd pictures including paintings by 
the virtuoso Siyavush。 A few great masters who hadn’t abandoned illustrating 
were making and selling individual pieces; which weren’t part of any story at 
all。  By  examining  such  single  leaves;  you  couldn’t  tell  which  scene  or  which 
story  it  represented;  rather;  you  would  admire  it  for  its  own  sake;  for  the 
pleasure  of  beholding  alone。  For  example;  you  might  ment;  ”This  is  the 
exact likeness of a horse; how beautiful;“ and you’d pay the artist on this basis。 
Scenes of bat or fucking are quite mon。 The price for a bustling battle 
has  fallen  to  three  hundred  silver  coins;  and  there  are 

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